The Best Biscuit I've Ever Eaten Wasn't from the South: Denver Biscuit Company

2:49 PM Life in Between 0 Comments


March 11, 2016


There comes a point when hunger reaches a level beyond comfort. My stomach gave a deep growl as I walked down the busy tree-lined street of an eclectic neighborhood in Denver. I clasped my arms around my empty gut as we turned a corner to see a beacon of hope. There it was--Denver Biscuit Company. For weeks I had been waiting in suspense for my business trip to Colorado, only because I had my heart set on this very restaurant.

First of all, let me explain my credentials for determining what makes a "winning biscuit." The South is in my blood. Born and raised in a--very--small town in Alabama, I have had my fair share of biscuits. We eat biscuits with everything! Breakfast, lunch, dinner...we find a way to include them somewhere. Surely a meal isn't complete without a flaky, buttery biscuit to top it off. And so here I was, being driven by my southern roots into the closest establishment that would feed me "the food of my people."

Denver Biscuit Company came to the city of Denver out of a great need--a need for gourmet biscuits. Drew Shader, the man who brought these wonderful creations to the city, opened the Denver Biscuit Bus and Denver Biscuit Company with the help of his wife Ashleigh and Executive Chef Jonathan Larsen. While the Denver Biscuit Bus food truck was being built, they opened up Denver Biscuit Company in the back of Drew's existing bar, The Atomic Cowboy. Now featured on The Food Network; Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives; CNN and more, the restaurant has come a long way. You can read more about their story on the official website, http://www.denbisco.com/.

The aroma of freshly baked biscuits cloaked the surrounding streets. Inside, patrons were gathered around a bar in the center of the room, casually chatting about business, football and other pleasantries. The host seated us immediately and we sat down to experience the "mile-high biscuits" that everyone was raving about.

The waitress pointed at the opposite side of the room. "See that display over there?" she said. "Coffee is all-you-can-drink. Just pick up a cup and drink as much as you want." I glanced at the shelves to find a crowd of coffee mugs waiting to be used. For only $3, I could drink caffeine to my heart's content. Vintage and modern board games lined the top shelf for anyone who wished to stay occupied while waiting on their biscuit sandwich. I quickly poured my cup and headed back to the table for a difficult decision. Which biscuit would I get?

I looked above me to the wall for inspiration. The Cordon Bleu sounds amazing...but, what about The Ellsworth? The choice took some time, but I ultimately decided on the DBC Club (minus bacon). A mammoth culinary creation, the DBC was a tower of fried chicken, cheese, iceberg lettuce, tomato and--wait for it--chipotle ranch. This sounded like something that I couldn't live without. So I went for it. With every ounce of excitement I sang my order to the waitress. But I added more. "I'd like an order of your sweet potato fries too!" This was no time to count calories.

As the biscuit made its way to my table, I watched as others in the room admired its beauty. "Enjoy," said the waitress. I only had one problem: How do I eat it?

Before me sat a monument to all things delicious. It was like playing the most satisfying game of Jenga in the world. If I made one wrong move, it would tumble and I would have to reassemble its contents. To truly experience the sandwich you need all flavors present, right? And so I began. I clamped my fingers around each side of the mighty sandwich and took my first bite. Hot, flaky, savory, tender, cheesy, buttery, spicy--there were so many things happening at once that I didn't notice the ranch dripping down the sides of my fingers. It was succulent; it was messy. It was perfect.
The rest of the table was filled with other items that anyone would be crazy to pass up. My sweet potato fries were delectable, and my trip companion ordered the Biscuit French Toast. Incredible as it sounds, the Biscuit French Toast is a marriage of freshly baked biscuit bread with homemade french toast. May these two never separate, because it was the way french toast was always supposed to be. It was sticky, syrupy, sweet and everything you could want from french toast. Denver Biscuit Company was doing its job. 
Throughout the meal there was little talking about anything other than the food. It was quickly determined that Denver Biscuit Company was the new standard for homemade biscuits. 
I didn't finish my biscuit in one sitting--it was too much. But later that night in my hotel room I sat by the light of the television and shamelessly ate every last forkful of the biscuit and sweet potato fries. It was a hard goodbye as I reached the last bite. 
So let it be known that this southerner found her favorite place for biscuits, and it was no where near home. Denver Biscuit Company, I congratulate you. 



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